Feel the Scent
Feel the scent - how a synthetic scent becomes a tangible object with the use of algorithms.
Studying the topic of scent in, in particular with descriptions and classifications. I used data sets of molecules to make synthetic scents literally apperceptive. I transformed the description of the smell by translating the parameters into three-dimensional objects.
Basic Knowledge
Creating the scent of a memory
Exploring the world of fragrances entails grasping the nuances of base, heart, and head notes. As these notes are individually blended, the true essence of scent composition is revealed. Incorporating thinking in short film sequences into the creative process added depth to the exploration. Moreover, the significance of even a small volume of fragrance becomes apparent, highlighting the ability to craft a personal narrative through one's unique fragrance blend.
“It's holiday time. Mediterranean climate, not hot but comfortably warm. You spend the day swimming in the river and enjoying the sun. When you return to the old brick house in the late afternoon, you feel clean and deeply relaxed. The bed in the room is freshly made, with the windows open and the curtains gently waving in the wind. You lie down on the bed, atop the bedding, feeling relaxed and content. You savor the silence, cleanliness, and freshness, eagerly anticipating dinner. You feel safe and snug.”
Top
2,5 ml Bergamot
0,75 ml Mandarine
0,25 ml Lemongras
0,25 ml Ginger oil
0,25 ml Jumperberry
Middle
1,5 ml Helional
0,4 ml Rosemary
0,25 ml Cinnamon
0,25 ml Cypress
0,25 ml Lavender
Base
1 ml Myrth
0,43 ml Fresh Leather
0,4 ml Patoulli
0,4 ml Cederwood
0,33 ml Alpha Ionone
0,33 ml Ethyl Maltol
Traditional Scent Classifications
Since the beginning of perfumery, efforts have been made to classify fragrances for better description and blending. Visual diagrams and colors have been traditionally used, but typically only show one or two parameters. These parameters vary widely, from description and classification to psychological effects. These classifications categorize different numbers of fragrances, with maps giving an overview of groups. While older methods leaned towards psychological and philosophical approaches, modern methods use mathematical, physical, and chemical approaches, which may be challenging for non-scientists to understand. All classifications are two-dimensional, with only George William Septimus's acoustic translation using another sense.
To provide an overview of various traditional scent classifications, information cards with a picture on the front and information on the back were created.
Ideation
Natural fragrance like lavener is made of molecular compounds. Representing natural scents visually is quite simple; a photo or drawing of the source would suffice. However, there are also scents that do not occur naturally in nature – synthetic scents. It becomes more challenging. Already the classification of scents, seems to be a missing dimension; it was not convincing that visual representation could be the only way to depict a scent, especially a synthetic one, and not just subjectively. The aim should be to use defined parameters and algorithms to achieve this. The two-dimensionality of the researched classifications should thus be expanded by one dimension. In conclusion, what is smellable must become tangible. The approach is to research parameters such as molecular mass, character, and scent intensity and apply them to a surface. These parameters should define the structure and density, regularity, geometry, and height. The CAD program Rhino with the Grasshopper plug-in is used for to create a 3D prints based on the data of the specific scent.
Data Collection
Various data were collected, reorganized, and categorized. The following data were captured: Molecular mass, carbon count, hydrogen count, oxygen count, molecular density, scent intensity, scent duration, mass spectrometry, family (main scent), description in words, ABC of Perfumery, usage type, and quantity of use.
Applications of the data as parameters were tested, resulting in the development of a concept.
The Concept
After extensive practice and learning of the Grasshopper plug-in for the Rhinoceros CAD program, surfaces were generated using a simple algorithm (see next page). Following multiple experiments with various molecular data, it was decided to utilize mass spectrometry data to generate the surfaces. Mass spectrometry is a method for measuring the mass of atoms and molecules. Gaseous molecules are ionized, accelerated through an electric field, and "sorted" based on a mass-to-charge ratio. In the future, similar approaches will be applied to describe the scent of molecules, defining not only surfaces but also shapes.
Own Scent Classification
Founded by Stephen V. Dowthwaite, the website www.perfumersworld.com offers abundant information on various aspects of this passion. Dowthwaite himself aims to serve as a resource for perfumers, promoting the artistry of perfumery and the independence of practitioners from companies.
After understanding and internalizing this system, an own unique system to categorize synthetic scents was developed. Overlapping circles representing 15 groups of scent categories.
For instance, Melonal is described as 33% "green," 24% "fruity," and 23% "muguet" (corresponding to number 17)
The overlapping circle areas form a triangle, which, with various arrangements and folding techniques of its facets, gives rise to a three-dimensional description system named as the Scent Pyramid.
Finalisation
Each side of the pyramid defines a basic form. The vertical allocation of scents on the pyramid (when the side labeled "Musk," "Animalic," and "Linalool" forms the base) determines the ratio of curved to straight edges.
The shape is defined by the side of the Scent Pyramid on which the scent lies. Was vier geometrische grundfomen ergibt: a pyramid, a combination of the geometric forms of a cube and a cylinder, a geometric form based of a ring and a geometric form of a cylindrical cutout.
The ratio of curved to straight edges is defined by the height of the scent on the Scent Pyramid (assuming the side with "Animalic" and "Linalool" descriptors as the base). This side consists solely of straight edges, and the higher a scent is placed on the Scent Pyramid, the more the ratio of straight to curved edges changes, eventually leading to exclusively curved edges.
To utilize both the defined body shapes and the combined surfaces effectively, it was decided to use the surfaces as cutting planes, dividing the body into two parts. When these parts are rejoined, they form a single body. This futuristic effect has a comparable aesthetic to a fractured stone with a shimmering quartz interior. The cutting plane is defined by the mass spectrometry data of each respective molecule.
